Consult the
‘Cosmetics Cop’
Paula Begoun, author of Don’t Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me (eighth edition), has studied beauty products of every description for more than a decade, from high-tech anti-aging creams to waterproof mascara.

Even for a pro like Begoun, navigating through the hype and hope of the industry can be a daunting task. More than 20,000 ingredients and millions of permutations can potentially be used in skin care and makeup products. Some superstars perform as promised. Others are less than stellar.

When it comes to the price of products incorporating these ingredients, she is blunt: “Price in the cosmetic industry is indicative of nothing. Paying a lot of money for something doesn’t guarantee that it works. Every product is unique.” The good news: there are brilliant products at every price point and some of the best ingredients (like glycerine, a moisturizing agent, and benzoyl peroxide, common in acne preparations) are inexpensive.

Prioritize beauty dollars
When it comes to makeup, good performance makes products expensive and not true winners. Mascara should go on easily, without clumping or flaking, and it should stay put until you remove it.  Vasanti Long Lash Mascara ($16, available only in intense black), has extras like moisturizing ingredients, silk protein and Vitamin E. Three Canadian women founded the company and all products are made here.  Almay One Coat Dial-up Mascara ($9.95) is a new arrival that has three settings for the desired fullness of lashes. Available in three shades and contains an extra gentle formula that is hypoallergenic and ophthalmologist tested, making it great for contact wearers. 
Ready for a lipstick update? Grab a new shade for fall when your own tubes have passed their prime. If it smells a bit off, time to trash it! Italian made  Pupa Natural Chic Lipstick ($20) comes in four, pretty, neutral shades and contains moisturizing avocado oil. The tube has a sleek metallic silver finish, plus there’s a built-in mirror, handy for application on the go.  Revlon’s new Color Burst Lipstick ($10.50) comes in 20 shades and incorporates technology to make them feel weightless and comfortable on the lips. 

Some products are worth spending more money on. Toronto dermatologist
Dr. Benjamin Barankin of The Dermatology Centre (unlockyourbeauty.com),

feels that a good anti-aging cream is an appropriate choice for your beauty dollars: “Splurge on anti-aging products with proven ingredients such as Vitamin C, retinol, glycolic acid and coffeeberry.” Vichy’s new  Liftactiv CxP Skin Cell Renewal Visible Lifting Face Care ($45) offers a high-tech continuous release Vitamin C solution that promises to enhance the production of fibre-producing cells, responsible for skin's firmness. This serum glides onto skin for fast results – a lifted effect within four days. A Canadian brand priding itself on affordable quality formulations,  Marcelle’s New • Age Anti-Wrinkle + Firming Day Cream ($28.25) uses effective ingredients that are not at the upper end of cost, including: olive oil, shea butter, amino acids, and soybean extract. Suitable for all skin types.

“Splurge on anti-aging products with proven ingredients such as Vitamin C, retinol, glycolic acid and coffeeberry.”

     And where to scrimp? “I’d spend less on cleansers,” Barankin says. Cleansers don’t stay on the skin very long. They’re washed off, along with any beneficial ingredients. Ask your dermatologist for recommendations (mild cleansers such as Cetaphil or Spectroderm are faves), or select one suited to your skin type. Makeup removing cloths are a quick easy way to cleanse skin.

 Olay Definity Illuminating Make-up Remover Towelettes  ($14.39 for 30) contain mostly water, but include ingredients like Vitamins B3, B5, C and E.  Rexall Make-up Remover and Cleansing Towelettes  ($5.99 for 30) sweep away makeup (even waterproof mascara) easily with a formula that is simple but gentle.
    
Cosmetic counters stock skin primers designed to help boost the staying power of your foundation for a flawless look all day long. Plus it claims to fill in lines and wrinkles to create a smoother finish.
 dermaglow Ageless Primer ($50) plumps up lines and wrinkles with moisturizers like hyaluronic acid, while it absorbs excess oil to reduce shine.  Revlon Beyond Natural Smoothing Primer ($16.95) is a gel with a refreshing fragrance, fills in lines and pores for a smooth, lasting foundation base. Apply primer first, then foundation, or wear it alone.
     Foundation is an important base for your overall look. It evens out skin tone and helps cover up imperfections. It should feel light on the skin, never look chalky, or obvious.
Only you should know that you’re wearing it. Matching the right colour to go with your skin tone is key. 
 Emani Hydrating Liquid Mineral Foundation ($32) comes in six shades and does not use any animal-based ingredients. This formula was created with dry skin in mind with moisturizers that
include jojoba oil and hyaluronic acid. 
 COVERGIRL TRUblend Microminerals Foundation ($13.99) is a super-fine powder that allows you to create the degree of coverage you’d like, from sheer to full. There are 10 shades offered and the packaging includes an application brush.

Whys and wiser
Consumers who take the time to read labels stand a better chance of making wiser choices. The list of ingredients offers insight into a product. By law, they need to appear in order.