As Canadians, we have learned to tolerate winter, but not necessarily what it does to our skin. Brisk, cold winds, sub-zero temperatures, and over-heated indoor spaces can take a toll on even the healthiest looking faces. Dry air coupled with environmental factors can turn normal skin into misbehaving, highly-reactive, sensitive skin. The good news is that tweaking your skincare routine with the right products can bring back a healthy glow, long before the tulips of spring start to blossom. You may think you have sensitive skin; almost 60% of Canadians believe they do. In reality, it’s less common than you’d expect – only about 35 to 40% of us truly experience sensitivity. So what is it really? With sensitive skin, the hydrolipidic barrier (which functions like a protective layer) is damaged, making it more vulnerable to everything from cosmetic ingredients to sun. “When the barrier isn’t intact, anything can make skin more sensitive,” explains Marie Bertrand, a cosmetic scientist and microbiologist who founded SkinScience in Calgary. There are plenty of factors that can cause sensitive skin. Winter is not entirely to blame. Sensitive skin could be genetic, or it could be the result of medications such as topical antibacterials (like benzoyl peroxide) and oral antibiotics (including erythromycin and Accutane – a common treatment for acne). Skin diseases like rosacea may also be the culprit. Laser resurfacing treatments and chemical peels that remove the uppermost layers of skin can temporarily sensitize skin too. Even over-zealous, at-home exfoliation (gritty scrubs, alphahydroxy products and peels) will harm that all-important hydrolipidic layer. Applying lotions and creams can make skin burn or sting, and the face feels dry and sensitive. Smarter skincare choices Any skin type can experience sensitivity – whether it’s oily, dry, normal or combination. The key is to address sensitive skin with the right products. “You want ones that will help strengthen the hydrolipidic barrier and soothe the skin,” says Bertrand. She recommends reading labels carefully and to look for hypoallergenic products. There is no guarantee that your skin will not react to them, but they have been formulated and tested to reduce the risk of irritation. Watch for ‘fragrance-free’ and ‘no parabens added’ (a type of preservative) on the label. Perfume and preservatives are not friends to sensitive skin. “Simple formulas are best,” adds Bertrand, “so the shorter the list of ingredients, the better.” In winter especially, moisturizing is the step in your skincare routine that you shouldn’t skip. Dry skin is often sensitive. Keep it happy by making sure skin has proper levels of oil and water, two crucial components in the barrier that protects the skin health. While it’s tempting to slather on the richest cream you can find, that’s not an approach that works well. You still need to use products that are right for your skin type. Someone with oily skin can also have sensitive skin; but applying a moisturizer that’s too heavy could cause pimples and breakouts. Ingredients that fall under the umbrella of NMFs (or natural moisturizing factors) are a better choice.   They mimic elements that skin has naturally, so you get the look and feeling of normal skin. Look for ingredients such as urea, glycerin, sodium lactate, amino acids, and propylene glycol. Three categories of moisturizers: 1 Humectants attract water from the deeper layer of skin epidermis (to the stratum corneum). Urea, hylaluronic acid, sodium PCA and glycerin are common ones. 2 Occlusives slow the evaporation of water from the surface of the skin. While effective, they tend to be greasy, feel heavy on the skin and clog pores.  Examples include Vaseline, mineral oil, beeswax and lanolin. 3 Emollients sit on the uppermost layers of the skin (the stratum corneum) and act as lubricants to make it feel soft and smooth. Ingredients to note include glycerin, cyclomethicone, glyceryl stearates and propylene glycol linoleate. A moisturizer might use ingredients from all three categories. Watch for thermal water in the ingredient list. It’s an effective skin soother. Some moisturizers suited for sensitive skin include: Vichy Aqualia Thermal; La Roche-Posay Hydreane Legere (good for those with normal to combination skin) and La Roche- Posay Hydreane Riche (for dry skin types); Cetaphil Moisturizing Lotion; Dove Sensitive Skin Day Lotion; Avène Rich Compensating Cream and Biotherm Biosensitive Soothing Balancing Gel-cream Moisturizer. The best time to apply is immediately after bathing or showering to seal in the moisture while pores are open. The gentle touch Be extra nice to sensitive skin. “Treat it gently:  avoid overly hot water, prolonged exposure to cold, detergents and harsh exfoliating,” advises Bertrand. To cleanse it, choose soap-free products, like Cetaphil, La Roche-Posay Physiological Cleansers, Dove Sensitive Skin Non-foaming Cleanser, Avène Gentle Gel Rinse-off Cleanser, Biotherm Biosensitive Gentle Cleansing Fluid and Aveeno Positively Radiant Cleanser. Avoid products that are labeled “foaming.” These contain detergent that can be irritating to very sensitive skin. Don’t over-do cleansing by scrubbing vigorously. Just use your fingertips to massage cleanser over the skin to lift off dirt and makeup. Afterwards, pat skin dry, but don’t rub. Moisturize while your skin is still damp to seal in moisture. If you’re spending any time outdoors, apply a sunscreen before your moisturizer, or choose a two-in-one product that moisturizes and offers sun protection. When putting together your regimen for sensitive skin, be extra kind and pick your products carefully. Winter comes and goes, but good skincare is an all year round endeavour.  H&L