By Michele Sponagle

Wouldn’t it be nice to turn back the hands of time and have radiant skin again? While there’s no miracle to do that, exfoliation does help. Dr. Benjamin Barankin, a Toronto dermatologist with The Dermatology Centre (www.unlockyourbeauty.com) explains, “The average person generates a new layer of skin every two to four weeks. Some dead cells might hang around giving skin an uneven, dull and lifeless look.”
What can you do to revive that healthy glow? Exfoliate the old cells to unveil the new, fresh ones. Besides giving you a healthy glow, it helps keep pores unclogged, reduces fine lines, and softens skin. Here’s our guide to buffing and sloughing in its myriad of forms:

Roughing it
You can thank physics for the principles behind mechanical exfoliation, the kind that uses gritty surfaces or materials (from salt granules, to loofah sponges) to create friction when rubbed against the skin.

Cautionary notes: 
•  Once-a-week exfoliation is often enough during the winter when skin tends to be drier because of the lack of moisture in the air and indoor heating. 
•  Those over age 50, or who have a condition like acne, sensitive skin, or rosacea, should check with their dermatologist.

Worth a try at home:
For the face: Clinique Exfoliating Scrub; Olay Hydrate & Cleanse Micro-bead Cleansing Serum; Neutrogena Deep Clean Cleansing Cloths, St. Ives Swiss Formula Apricot Scrub.
For the body: Nuxe Paris Tonific Exfoliation Soft-Skin Booster Body Scrub, Kiss My Face Obsessively Organic Sugar Reef Organic Body Scrub, Crabtree & Evelyn Natural Botanical Body Scrub, Ren Clean Skincare Ginger Revivo-Tonic Two Sugar Body Scrub, Supracor Honey-comb Bath Mitt, Clinique Sparkle Skin Body Exfoliating Cream.

Savvy tips: “Use these types of products on wet skin,” advises Dr. Barankin. “Then use just a little bit of product and work it over the skin gently with small circular motions. Rinse it off thoroughly with water. Pat to dry, then apply moisturizer while skin is still damp to lock in moisture.”

At the doctor’s office:
Old-fashioned dermabrasion was once a popular treatment. Though it wor-ked quite well, it required at least three weeks rec-overy time. Now, gentler micro dermabrasion has become the treatment of choice. A special instrument shoots tiny crystals at the face at high speed to remove the very top layers of skin, while a vacuum device sucks up the debris. Fortunately, there’s no recovery time needed. “It’s well tolerated by most skin types,” says Dr. Barankin. “It leaves skin with a nice glow. I generally suggest four to six treatments for best results.”

Peel and reveal
Instead of physically scruffing away dead skin, chemicals, especially acids, can do the job. Chemical exfoliators dissolve the skin’s keratin layer to remove old cells. At the drug store, you’ll see products that contain salicylic, lactic, or glycolic, (alpha-hydroxy or AHA) acid. While they soften skin, they can reduce fine lines, even out skin tone, and minimize breakouts. 

Savvy tips: •  Be patient. Over-the-counter products have relatively low concentrations of acid so results may not be evident until you’ve been using them for a month. •  Wear a sunscreen with a minimum SPF 15 daily. These types of products tend to make skin more reactive to the sun. •  Depending on your skin type, you can apply AHA products up to twice a day. Two or three times a week, if your skin is more sensitive.

Worth a try at home:
For the face: Fresh Apple-seed Resurfacing Kit, NeoStrata Daytime Smoo-thing Cream (8% glycolic acid), Reversa UV Anti-Wrinkle Cream (8% plus SPF 15), Clinique Turn-around Concentrate Visi-ble Skin Renewer, Aveeno Skin Brightening Daily Treatment.
For the body: NeoStrata Body Lotion (12%), Reversa Skin Smoo-thing Body Lotion (10%).

At the doctor’s office:
Your dermatologist may use products with a higher percentage of acid, and do peels with different types, depending on skin type and the desired results. Glycolic acid (30 to 70%) provides a superficial peel that gives skin a healthy glow. A medium strength peel using trichloacetic acid (TCA) or salicylic acid reduces fine lines and lightens brown spots. Topical retinoids, creams formulated with derivatives of Vitamin A, may also be prescribed.

Laser resurfacing
For the last few decades, lasers are an essential, dermatological tool. Lasers, depending on the type, can remove the upper layers of skin. A carbon dioxide, CO2 laser works on the skin at a deeper level. Though it produces dramatic results, the recovery time is significant.
Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) is a more contemporary way to improve skin texture. While it removes brown spots, it also stimulates the production of collagen, the all-important material that supports the skin. A series of treatments might be recommended, typically five, followed by periodic sessions to maintain the result.
The CoolTouch laser represents the new breed of lasers. Its heat stimulates the skin, causing it to produce collagen. Meanwhile, it keeps the surface of the skin cool so there’s no redness or down time needed. It takes a few sessions before you see results, but is effective, especially for retexturizing skin that has been damaged due to acne scars.  H&L